Good morning, and welcome to the Essential California newsletter. It’s Sunday, Sept. 29. I’m your host, Andrew J. Campa. Here’s what you need to know to start your weekend:
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Los Angeles is sandwich nirvana
One of the nascent debates in Los Angeles food history dates to 1908, when the French dip was born.
Two parents claim this classic concoction of roast beef, French bread and au jus.
A preponderance of evidence favors Philippe the Original and its French founder Philippe Mathieu, but downtown Cole’s has held firm to its claim of being first.
While that friendly dispute may never be resolved, the Los Angeles Times’ Food Team (French) dipped its toe into another appetizing conversation, naming their 37 favorite sandwich spots throughout L.A. and Orange counties.
There are fan favorites, including Langer’s, and snubs (Giamela’s!?). There is also recognition for a new wave of restaurateurs hoping to become the next Philippe the Original and Cole’s.
A handful of favorites from our list are located below.
Sandwich shops
(Laurie Ochoa / Los Angeles Times)
The list of traditional sandwich shops includes 13 selections from Pasadena to Santa Monica, and from Whittier to Newport Beach.
Colleague Laurie Ochoa recommends hitting up Torino in Pasadena for those looking for a savory Cuban sandwich.
The bread on this beef tongue sandwich is toasted to an exact crispness that crackles as you eat it. While the beef is what drives people to Torino, the complements — raw jalapeño slivers, tomato and garlic sauce — help deliver the contrasting textures and flavors.
Sticking within the San Gabriel Valley, colleague Bill Addison raved about Whittier’s Uptown Provisions.
While Addison was a fan of the store’s curried chicken, vegetable and hummus, the classic Italian meatball stood tallest.
The hero’s marinara sauce covers balls of ground beef, veal and pork, which are finished with smoked mozzarella and a squiggle of pesto aioli. A flurry of dried onion bits matches the crunch of the roll.
Tortas take center stage
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)
Colleague Stephanie Breijo found a messy and tasty surprise at Paramount’s Birote Deli, located in the cafe Horchateria Rio Luna.
The shrimp ahogado is drenched in a salty, peppery, punchy bouillabaisse variant made from lobster stock. Be prepared for this delight to drip down your arm.
Lost in the flavors of the shrimp and lobster stock is the crunchy-crusted birote salado (don’t call it a bolillo), a sort of Mexican sourdough roll, that helps sop up the goodness.
South Los Angeles has a variety of outstanding torta places with Inglewood’s Tortuga Bay belonging to that list, according to my colleague Danielle Dorsey.
Sure, the establishment has traditional plates — tacos, pozole and chilaquiles — but the torta ahogado merits a visit.
The sandwich swims in a moat of spicy tomato sauce and overflowing with juicy carnitas and beans. Yet, the thick sourdough bread remains springy as you fork and knife your way through it — or, for the brave, tackle it with two hands.
Slivers of sharp white onion and a wedge of lime are served on the side for a nice acidic contrast. Despite the durability of the bread, this is not a sandwich that you take to go.
Trust your local butcher
Next we head to Orange County for a pair of shops carving up masterpieces.
My colleague Betty Hallock made a simple statement: “Sometimes I want a sandwich by the ocean.”
Whenever that urge hits, Hallock heads to The Butchery Quality Meats at the Crystal Cove in Newport Coast.
It’s the sort of place where customers can shop for their favorite cuts of meat, burger blends, sausages and fancy Wagyu hot dogs, along with cheeses, condiments, bread and beer.
Hallock’s favorite sandwich has been the deli turkey.
It includes fromage blanc with locally made pepper jam on a white roll from a nearby Santa Ana bakery.
The sweet-savory pepper jam and creamy fromage blanc for some reason give post-Thanksgiving vibes, but sans any particularly “holiday” flavors, so it’s an all-seasons snack.
My colleague Cindy Carcamo rounds off this robust section on our list in Newport Beach with an Argentine favorite, the choripán, from Mario’s Butcher Shop.
The sausage sandwich is a mainstay in the land of Messi and is a combo word made from its ingredients, chorizo and bread.
The sausage is cut lengthwise and served on a baguette, topped with a bright chimichurri sauce, which is made with olive oil, vinegar and fresh herbs.
It all works so well, especially on the perfectly crunchy-soft baguette procured from local BREAD Artisan Bakery in Santa Ana. Also, do yourself a favor and pair your sandwich with a side order of tasty french fries.
Well, that’s just a half dozen out of 37 locations on the list. Aren’t you hungry? Cure your hunger with our selections.
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Column One
Column One is The Times’ home for narrative and longform journalism. Here’s a great piece from the week:
(Sarahi Apaez/Los Angeles Times)
Inside LA Librería’s new West Adams location, a hush falls over the thick crowd of multigenerational families. Angelica Sauceda, a librarian at Anaheim Public Libraries, faces an audience of young readers ready to hear the bilingual story of “La Siesta Perfecta.” “Es hora,” she calls out. It’s story time.
More great reads
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For your weekend
(Illustrations by Lindsey Made This; photograph by Emma McIntyre / WireImage)
Going out
Staying in
L.A. Affairs
Get wrapped up in tantalizing stories about dating, relationships and marriage.
(Andrew Introna / For The Times)
After the in-flight movie ended, I looked up, and there he was. I waved; I was glad to see him again. I thought he was on his way to the restroom. He wasn’t. He‘d come to find me. It was good I had an aisle seat. For the next two hours, we dove in, surrounded by strangers.
Have a great weekend, from the Essential California team
Andrew J. Campa, reporter
Carlos Lozano, news editor
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